Bottom Crust Apple Crostata

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Crostata, Italian for sweet tart, are a rustic version of the American pie and much less fussy to prepare than French tarts. I first sampled a flat apple tart baked in this style from a wood-fired pizza oven, made to order, in a crowded Parisian pizza parlor. It is flatter than a regular pie since it is freeform and every so much quicker to make. To make a crostata, a pie crust dough is rolled out into an uneven circle and transferred onto a baking sheet. You pile the fruit tossed with just a dash of sugar and lemon juice into the center; nothing fancy, just plain old-fashioned here. Then you form the shape by folding up the short sides gently over the edges of the filling. The fruit remains partially exposed. As long as you don’t tear the dough you are fine, and any uneven shape is acceptable, even attractive. This style of making a pie will be a total revelation if you are not already familiar with it. It makes one big round flat pie, since no matter how high you pile the fruit, it collapses as it cooks. Breaking with tradition, use a cream cheese pastry dough that is so easy to work with that any beginner is certain to produce a beautiful tart. Keep this recipe around; it is good for all sweet and savory pie makings. Use the food processor for mixing; it makes an often tedious job a snap. If the dough is too soft, place it in the refrigerator for just 15 to 20 minutes to slightly firm up; not too long or it will be stiff and crack while rolling. Don’t worry about uneven edges, that’s part of the charm. I like a delicate whole wheat version as much as one made with all white flour; I have included both here. Although la crostata are traditionally baked in a shallow tart pan, you can use a 12-inch pizza pan with gently sloping sides or a baking sheet; just fold up and pleat the sides over the filling to create a flatish freeform tart that ends up about 10 inches in diameter with the center exposing the filling. Bottom Crust Apple Crostata 4 to 5 large tart apples, peeled, cored, and sliced 1/2 cup organic cane sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, allspice, or cardamom 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground nutmeg One recipe Cream Cheese Pastry Dough (recipe follows) 2 tablespoons butter 1. Preheat oven to 375º. Combine apples, sugar, and spices in a medium bowl. Toss to evenly coat apples. 2. Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface with a rolling pin into an 14-inch round. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet or 12-inch pizza pan. Pile the apples into the center of the crust leaving a 4-inch border on the outside; dot with butter. 3. Raise the dough border and lay it over on the apples around the sides of the tart, draping gently over the fruit; the outer edges will be encased in dough –you will fold up and pleat the sides ever few inches over the filling to create a flatish freeform tart that ends up about 9 1/2-inches in diameter with the center filling exposed. Bake on the center rack of the oven, 40 to 45 minutes, until golden and apples are tender. Makes 1 apple tart, serves 6 Cream Cheese Pastry Dough 2 sticks cool (slightly malleable) unsalted butter, cut into pieces 8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature and cut into pieces 2 cups all-purpose flour or whole wheat pastry flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1. Place the cream cheese and butter in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the mixing bowl of a heavy duty electric mixer. Cream until smooth. Add the flour and salt. Mix on low just until a soft ball is formed. Knead a few times by hand and pat into a flattened circle. Do not overmix or pastry will be tough. 2. To roll out, place on a floured work surface (I like marble or a pastry cloth). Using a rolling pin, roll from the center out to the top edge. Give the pastry a 1/4 turn and roll again. Shape into a circle as you roll the dough out to the desired thickness. Sprinkle lightly with flour as you roll and turn to keep the dough from sticking to the pin or work surface. If the dough cracks or tears, moisten the area with water and patch with a piece of dough torn from the edge. Work quickly while rolling out; the dough will be about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer to the pie plate by gently folding the dough into quarters and quickly laying it on the plate with the inside point at the center of the plate. Unfold and fill. Crostate, Italian for sweet tart, are a rustic version of the American pie and much less fussy to prepare than French tarts. I first sampled a flat apple tart baked in this style from a wood-fired pizza oven, made to order, in a crowded Parisian pizza parlor. It is flatter than a regular pie since it is freeform and every so much quicker to make. To make a crostata, a pie crust dough is rolled out into an uneven circle and transferred onto a baking sheet. You pile the fruit tossed with just a dash of sugar and lemon juice into the center; nothing fancy, just plain old-fashioned here. Then you form the shape by folding up the short sides gently over the edges of the filling. The fruit remains partially exposed. As long as you don’t tear the dough you are fine, and any uneven shape is acceptable, even attractive. This style of making a pie will be a total revelation if you are not already familiar with it. It makes one big round flat pie, since no matter how high you pile the fruit, it collapses as it cooks. Breaking with tradition, use a cream cheese pastry dough that is so easy to work with that any beginner is certain to produce a beautiful tart. Keep this recipe around; it is good for all sweet and savory pie makings. Use the food processor for mixing; it makes an often tedious job a snap. If the dough is too soft, place it in the refrigerator for just 15 to 20 minutes to slightly firm up; not too long or it will be stiff and crack while rolling. Don’t worry about uneven edges, that’s part of the charm. I like a delicate whole wheat version as much as one made with all white flour; I have included both here. Although la crostata are traditionally baked in a shallow tart pan, you can use a 12-inch pizza pan with gently sloping sides or a baking sheet; just fold up and pleat the sides over the filling to create a flatish freeform tart that ends up about 10 inches in diameter with the center exposing the filling. Bottom Crust Apple Crostata 4 to 5 large tart apples, peeled, cored, and sliced 1/2 cup organic cane sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, allspice, or cardamom 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground nutmeg One recipe Cream Cheese Pastry Dough (recipe follows) 2 tablespoons butter 1. Preheat oven to 375º. Combine apples, sugar, and spices in a medium bowl. Toss to evenly coat apples. 2. Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface with a rolling pin into an 14-inch round. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet or 12-inch pizza pan. Pile the apples into the center of the crust leaving a 4-inch border on the outside; dot with butter. 3. Raise the dough border and lay it over on the apples around the sides of the tart, draping gently over the fruit; the outer edges will be encased in dough –you will fold up and pleat the sides ever few inches over the filling to create a flatish freeform tart that ends up about 9 1/2-inches in diameter with the center filling exposed. Bake on the center rack of the oven, 40 to 45 minutes, until golden and apples are tender. Makes 1 apple tart, serves 6 Cream Cheese Pastry Dough 2 sticks cool (slightly malleable) unsalted butter, cut into pieces 8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature and cut into pieces 2 cups all-purpose flour or whole wheat pastry flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1. Place the cream cheese and butter in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the mixing bowl of a heavy duty electric mixer. Cream until smooth. Add the flour and salt. Mix on low just until a soft ball is formed. Knead a few times by hand and pat into a flattened circle. Do not overmix or pastry will be tough. 2. To roll out, place on a floured work surface (I like marble or a pastry cloth). Using a rolling pin, roll from the center out to the top edge. Give the pastry a 1/4 turn and roll again. Shape into a circle as you roll the dough out to the desired thickness. Sprinkle lightly with flour as you roll and turn to keep the dough from sticking to the pin or work surface. If the dough cracks or tears, moisten the area with water and patch with a piece of dough torn from the edge. Work quickly while rolling out; the dough will be about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer to the pie plate by gently folding the dough into quarters and quickly laying it on the plate with the inside point at the center of the plate. Unfold and fill.